Cape Sounio(n)

I didn't know what to expect about Athens; everywhere else we are going I have either already been or have formed an opinion of already. But as of our arrival, I didn't have clear expectations for Greece (except for ruins and a lot of marble statues). So perhaps it's more precise to say that the Athens of my imaginings was inanimate; a museum piece already.

We have only 10 days left in Athens, and that seems far too short. Athens has gone from being lifeless to being a city that I'm afraid will be my favorite.

So given that today Sunday has rolled around again, I thought I would use it to document a few of the things that I am grateful for here. The week has flown past on the wings of fascinating outings, very hard work, learning and teaching, and not-quite-enough sleep. One of those things has very little to do with Athens itself; yet it was such a gift that I'll give it its own space.

Last week, on the heels of days of outings, starting the program off, and the first day of class, we then boarded a coach bus to Cape Sounion in order to visit the Temple of Poseidon; this is also the location where King Aegeus threw himself to death in the sea upon seeing the black sail, giving his name to the Aegean (for those of you as into Greek mythology as our kids right now).

Maybe it's that we were tired. Maybe it's that it was so hot: "August is not the time to be in Athens," we have heard repeatedly. We had thought we would visit the site and perhaps later the beach down the hill; but by the time we got there it was unbearable up there on the rocks--and anyway, sunset's the time to visit the temple. So we headed down to the water for a few hours, giving ourselves time to get back in before sunset.

And we swam. And all took a collective sigh of relief. And swam, and floated, and played some more.

We all cooled off, physically and metaphysically,  and basked--not just in the water, but in delighted  astonishment that we were all here. The water was warm and extra saline, which made swimming that much more fun! And above us were the ruins and a promise of a spectacular sunset to come.

Jesse and I swam way out with a bunch of stduents; the water was clear but deep. We did not, however, join the group that went out to the rock. (No, not that rock--the other rock, with students on it)

 

Meggie spent almost the entire time finding another rock. And another. And another. And telling us about it. The beach was almost entirely rocks, so there was plenty of fodder for her "Mama! I found a rock!" game.

After being totally refreshed by the physical break from heat and mental break from work, we boarded the bus back up the hill to the ruins. William was beside himself with excitement. Over ruins...and, of course, the stories associated with them. We all know how vibrant stories are, and how they draw us in, but it was particularly clear to me on this day when our children were so excited to be there. I had come for the landscape, but appreciated the stories as well--including the story of how these columns were built according to an adjusted design that accounted for the wear and tear of sea and wind at their location.

We got our first family photo in Greece--both with our immediate family--

And our slightly larger one!

 As a postscript--Much of the lower part of the temple is covered with etched graffiti. One of the most famous names so inscribed is that of Lord Byron.  I looked for it for a long time, and finally had some help on which column to search. Lord Byron spent time in Greece and wrote a poem titled "The Isles of Greece" soon before the revolution where the Greeks threw off 400 years of Turkish occupation. The end references Sounion--

Place me on Sunium's marbled steep,

         Where nothing, save the waves and I,

May hear our mutual murmurs sweep; 

There, swan-like, let me sing and die:

A land of slaves shall ne'er be mine—

Dash down yon cup of Samian wine!"

Last Friday, on the bus on the way to Delphi, Carmen also wrote a poem about Sounion. I leave you with it here. I will continue my gratitude list another time; it's late here now and we're early off to Corinth in the morning. Happy Sunday!